Barcelona has quite the pedigree when it comes to art. Not to put too fine a point on it, we’re talking about the self-same region that nurtured Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí and Joan Miró. Heck, this part of Spain is about as central to the development of European art as just about anywhere else on the continent. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the city’s fine art museums, among which the extraordinary Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya and epic Museu Picasso are among the very best. We took a closer look at these two titans of the Barça art scene, including a little bit of history and the treasures you can expect to find within…
Museu Picasso: The Lowdown
Vital Statistics: Opened in 1963, Barcelona’s Museu Picasso was the world’s first museum dedicated entirely to the maestro’s work, and the only one to open in his lifetime. Even today, the museum’s collection of 4,000+ pieces, located in the very neighborhood where Picasso lived and studied as a teenager, makes it one of the three largest Picasso collections on the planet, alongside the Picasso Museum in Paris, and the mighty Prado in Madrid. The museum attracts over a million visitors annually.
Picasso Museum in Brief: Picasso’s fledgling art career first took wing in the medieval streets of the medieval Gothic Quarter. Here’s where he lived with his family, studied at the School of Fine Arts, and found inspiration for his celebrated ‘Les Demoiselles d'Avignon’ at a Carrer d'Avinyó brothel. It’s appropriate then that this extensive collection of his work – and particularly his earlier, pre-Cubist work – should be exhibited here, close to the very neighborhood Picasso once called home. This is no ordinary museum either. Art of this quality deserves a setting just as impressive, and the series of five adjoining medieval palaces in Le Ribera, in which the collection is housed, more than delivers. The mind-boggling number of exhibits (some 4,251 at last count) is helpfully organized into sections that primarily cover Picasso’s early years, training period and celebrated Blue Period, taking in a fairly substantial hoard of sketches and paintings from those eras, as well as a much smaller collection of pieces from his Cubist period and beyond.
Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya: The Lowdown
Vital Statistics: A stalwart of the Barcelona art scene since 1934, MNAC is *the* go-to for anyone with even a passing interest in Catalan art from the last 1,000 years. Set high on Montjuïc hill, this majestic collection is displayed within the historic Palau Nacional, a jaw-dropping confection that marries elements of St Peter's Basilica, Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, and other major masterpieces of European architecture. Something of a work of art in its own right then, this palatial Italian-style confection also just happens to command some of the best Barcelona panoramas in town. No wonder then that it draws in a similar number of tourists to the Picasso Museum – around a million – every year.
MNAC in Brief: Go for the art and stay for the sweeping city views: visitors to the museum enjoy access to the roof terrace for unrivaled panoramas of the skyline, taking in everything from the Montjuïc Magic Fountain below to the familiar lines and angles of the Sagrada Família, and the Mediterranean beyond. It’s worth taking a peek inside too, of course. For here’s where you can marvel at Romanesque religious murals par excellence, lovingly transported here from crumbling medieval churches in the Pyrenees, as well as key pieces from the Gothic and Renaissance eras, and some of the modern masterworks that inspired Dalí, Picasso, Gaudí and Miró. In summary, MNAC boasts what is quite possibly (nay, almost certainly) the finest collection of Catalan art, ancient and modern, on this planet we call Earth.
Museu Picasso: Highlights & What to Expect
The Museu Picasso works hard to convey the artist’s relationship with Barcelona, from the formative years spent learning his craft in this very district to his continuing connection with the city in death. Guided tours of the local neighborhood flesh this out, revealing Picasso’s family homes, teenage hangouts and more. One such tour is included with a Barcelona pass from Go City, which also includes entry to the museum, as well as other Barcelona attractions including Gaudí’s Casa Batlló and the Sagrada Família. Find out more about the Barcelona pass and buy yours here.
Cool fact: during renovations in 1960, the Mural paintings of the Conquest of Majorca were discovered concealed beneath plaster in Palau Aguilar, one of the five medieval palaces in which Museu Picasso is housed. Considered a masterpiece of 13th-century Catalan art, these magnificent murals now form the focal point of the Gothic galleries at MNAC.
Back to the present day Museu Picasso now, where highlights include:
- ‘The First Communion’ and ‘Science and Charity’. Some of his earliest major works, these oil paintings date from 1896-1897, when Picasso was still a teenager.
- Must-see Blue Period works at the museum include ‘The Dead Woman’, a striking portrait of a recently deceased subject, rendered in the trademark sickly blues and greens Picasso favored between 1901 and 1904.
- In 1957, Picasso set about re-imagining Velazquez’s iconic 17th-century royal portrait ‘Las Meninas’, bringing his own inimitable style to the project across 58 (count ‘em) separate paintings. The resulting collection, displayed in its entirety here is, quite frankly, unmissable.
MNAC: Highlights & What to Expect
For an overview of Catalan art across the centuries, the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya is second-to-none, taking in everything from medieval Romanesque and Gothic murals to Renaissance masterpieces and modern art. Highlights of this 300,000-strong collection are many, but here are a few you absolutely must not miss:
- Baroque and Renaissance Spanish art provides some of the museum’s undisputed highlights. We’re talking masterpieces from the likes of El Greco, Velázquez, Zurbarán and more. Don’t miss one of the collection’s signature pieces: the unsettling ‘Martyrdom of Saint Bartholomew’ by José de Ribera’, in which the titular Bart’s desperate, pleading eyes seem to meet the gaze of the unsuspecting viewer (i.e. you).
- Murals including the Master of Taull’s majestic ‘Apse of St Taull’ and the epic Linear Gothic Catalan masterpiece that is the Mural paintings of the Conquest of Majorca, are among some of the finest examples of early medieval Romanesque art anywhere on the planet.
- The modern art collection covers around 150 years from the early 19th century onwards, with Romantic, realist and neoclassical pieces that preempt the work of Gaudí, Miró, Picasso et al. Check out sculptures by Campeny and the Vallmitjana brothers, and paintings by Flaugier and Fortuny, for the win.
Top tip: admission to MNAC is free after 3PM on Saturdays and on the first Sunday of each month. You can book tickets for these as well as paid entry slots here.
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