Market stalls on Campo dei Fiori in Rome

Best Markets in Rome

By Stuart Bak

Rome has enjoyed a fine marketplace tradition ever since Emperor Trajan first threw open the doors to his vast shopping and entertainment emporium way back in the Second Century. You can still visit the fascinating ruins of this ancient shoppers’ paradise on the Via dei Fori Imperiali, at the opposite end to the Colosseum. It’s well worth checking out for its well-preserved balconies, marble floors and remains of what would have been libraries and concert halls.

Alas, Trajan’s Market is now a mere tourist attraction – albeit a very fine one – but most certainly no longer the place to source ancient Roman essentials like wheat, mead, togas, sandals, urns, mobile phone cases and fidget toys. No! For those, we must look elsewhere, so join us on a voyage of discovery through the modern city, as we go in search of the best markets in Rome...

Campo dei Fiori

Image of Food, Produce, Artichoke, Fruit, Pineapple,

Admittedly not quite as old as Trajan’s shopping mecca, Campo dei Fiori does hold the accolade of Rome’s longest-running market. It’s been operating here since 1869, and brings its riot of color, sounds and scents to this popular piazza every morning except Sundays. Back in medieval times, the square was a meadow filled with flowers, and the name Campo dei Fiori is a literal translation of this. Carrying that tradition into the 21st Century, you’ll find flower sellers hawking all manner of vibrant seasonal blooms here, from romantic Tuscan poppies to rainbows of gerbera. Follow your nose to the the foodie stalls where delectable homemade cakes, freshly baked breads and pungent Italian cheeses await. You’ll also discover some of the freshest local vegetables here, with purplish artichokes, huge porcini mushrooms and vibrant puntarelle (a variety of chicory) often the stars of the show. And if you’re not, ahem, in the market for raw ingredients simply grab a sweet cannoli pastry and espresso and enjoy the bustle of the market from the comfort of one of the cafés that line the piazza.

Porta Portese

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Rummagers, get ready! Porta Portese’s Sunday flea market is the biggest in Rome, stretching for around a mile beyond its entrance, the forbidding ancient city gate that lends the market its name. Expect a little bit of everything here and in the surrounding streets and alleyways, from vintage Roma and Lazio soccer memorabilia to old vinyl records and CDs (expect a very strong showing from Italian best-sellers like Pavarotti, Zucchero and Andrea Bocelli). There are also – deep breath – retro comics and old newspapers, antique silverware, leather goods, mountains of clothes, kitsch movie memorabilia and, well, just about everything else you can think of. Sure, you might have to kiss a lot of frogs to find your prince here but, who knows, you might just walk away with that limited edition reproduction Luke Skywalker lightsaber you always dreamed of owning. Pro-tip: arrive early and bring your best haggling game (in Italian, if you can) to bag the best items at the lowest prices.

Fontanella Borghese

Image of Book, Publication, Shop,

Bibliophiles, cartophiles, deltiologists and philatelists: this one’s for you. Also known as Mercato delle Stampe, this is the place for antiquarian books, maps, postcards and other printed ephemera. Dodge the tourist traps around the edges (cheap identikit prints from stall to stall are a dead giveaway), plunge in, and you might just strike gold. The piazza itself, tucked between via del Corso and the east banks of the Tiber, is an elegant place to while away an hour or two, with the stately facade of the Palazzo Borghese on one side and the University of Rome’s architectural school in a suitably striking building adjacent.

San Cosimato

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Set on a pretty piazza in Rome’s laidback Trastevere district, San Cosimato is a favorite with in-the-know locals thanks to its farm-fresh produce and long history, with some stalls dating back 100 years or more. Here’s where to stock up on glistening just-caught fish, aromatic cheeses, vine-ripe tomatoes and piquant Tuscan salamis. There’s even a little book stall and a fab playground for the kids. More than just a market, this is a favourite place for Trastevere residents of all ages to congregate and catch up on the latest gossip. Look out for the stall with the longest queues of chattering locals: a sure sign that the produce on that one will be the very best.

Borghetto Flaminio

Image of Accessories, Bag, Handbag, Purse, Art,

Sellers and patrons of Sunday’s Borghetto Flaminio Market would likely balk at their beloved vintage emporium being described as a flea market. And yet that, in essence, is what it is: second-hand goods hawked and haggled for inside an old bus depot. But this is no ordinary flea market, no sir! For here is where you can lay your hands on the finest cast-offs of Rome’s elite: all immaculate vintage fashions, sparkling antique jewelry and pristine accessories such as purses and scarves. So confident is Borghetto Flaminio Market in the quality of its finery that there’s even a small entry charge. And, indeed, once inside it comes over as more boutique pre-loved treasure trove than regular flea market with its associated tat, trinkets and trash.

Campagna Amica

Image of Food, Cheese, Meat, Pork,

Situated right next to the Circus Maximus, Campagna Amica Market is easily one of the best food markets in Rome. It trades exclusively in produce sourced from within 100 kilometers, which primarily means goods from local Lazio farmers. Fill your boots and get stocked up on the region’s finest wines and fruity extra virgin olive oils. There’s also pasta, prosciutto, pecorino and pickles galore here, so you’re highly unlikely to go away empty-handed. All this talk of food making you hungry? Grab a porchetta sandwich stuffed with warm, garlicky roast pork shoulder so juicy it fairly drenches the bread, then try telling the Mouth of Truth (Bocca della Verita) round the corner it isn’t the best thing you’ve ever tasted. Go on, we dare you!

Christmas!

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A towering Christmas tree bejeweled with hundreds of twinkling fairy lights, the intoxicating aromas of mulled wine and roasting chestnuts, and the sound of excited young children badgering beleaguered parents for this or that shiny trinket: Christmas just wouldn’t be Christmas without a traditional market. Rome’s contribution – a daily event on Piazza Navona through the festive season – is no exception. In addition to dozens of stalls selling candy, antiques and unique handcrafted gifts, you can expect street performers, a beautiful old-fashioned carousel, sigh-inducing nighttime illuminations, carol singers and oodles of Christmas cheer.

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Hilltop town in Rome's seven hills
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Best day trips from Rome

Rome is like a lasagne – it’s a city of layers. It’s been buried and built on over the centuries, with so many statues, churches and monuments packed into its corners that will keep surprising you no matter how many times you come back. Despite that, it can be oppressive – it’s very hot and there’s a lot of stone and concrete about, so if you have time escape for a day and explore the regions and delicacies around Rome’s famous seven hills. Here are our best suggestions, from just outside the city centre up to a couple of hours away: The ancient Via Appia Antica Hadrian’s Villa at Tivoli Hilltop views from Orvieto Lake Bracciano St Francis' Assissi The art and architecture of Florence Pompeii Cycle the Ancient Via Appia Antica All roads may lead to Rome, but they also lead away from it, so if your feet are getting a little cobble-sore swap them for a bicycle and head out to the Via Appia Antica – the old Roman road originally linking Brundisium (modern day Brindisi) to the capital. It’s an ideal choice if you’re in town on a Sunday (when the Vatican is closed), as it’s closed to motorized traffic. The entire road is 350 miles long but don’t worry, the most scenic bits are all in the first few miles from the visitor center, which is 15 minutes from Circo Massimo. Companies like Go City offer full day bike rental with map and helmet, so you won’t have any trouble finding the churches, monuments and catacombs along the way. Visit Hadrian’s Villa at Tivoli Emperor Hadrian liked to get out of the city when he could, so follow in his footsteps and head to the Tiburtine Hills – although unlike Hadrian, you can take the train from Termini Station and be there in an hour. Hadrian also liked to build things, and along with the Pantheon and his very own wall he left a magnificent villa complex in Tivoli, complete with baths, temples, theatres and gardens. If ruins aren’t your thing, you could visit the nearby Villa d’Este, a 16th century palace. Its extensive grounds feature one of the earliest Italian renaissance gardens, and inspired the fashion in other European gardens for geometric shapes, fountains and ornamental statuary. Enjoy hilltop views from Orvieto 90 minutes from the city is the hilltop town of Orvieto, perched on an enormous volcanic rock and overlooking the hills around Rome. Take a cable car ride up to the Duomo (or walk and enjoy your lunch guilt-free), then climb the clock tower for 360 degree views of the surrounding hills. If you have a car – or a Vespa – you can take the long way home and meander through the rich agricultural regions of the Sabine Hills, sampling locally produced olive oil and truffles as you go. If not, you can still get your foodie fix by heading back to the city in time for a traditional pasta dinner by the Trevi Fountain. Lounge by Lake Bracciano If you don’t have time to visit the Alps, then the next best thing is a day trip to Lake Bracciano, an hour north of the city. A popular spot for canoeists, scuba divers and swimmers, the volcanic lake is protected both by the surrounding hills and its location within a national park, which restricts the number of motorized watercraft. Day-trippers can also visit the small town of the same name, and the medieval Orsini-Odescalchi Castle, which holds an impressive collection of medieval armour and weaponry but is perhaps more famous for being the wedding venue of Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes. Go on a pilgrimage to Assisi Less famous but just as pretty as Tuscany is its neighbour, Umbria, where pilgrims and art devotees have been journeying for centuries to the Basilica di San Francisco in Assisi – some for the celebrated cycle of frescoes by Giotto, others to pay respects at the tomb of St Francis. Near the basilica, the town of Assisi has plenty of charm without the tourists, with narrow cobbled streets and lanes packed full of family-owned shops. Stay for a quiet dinner or head back for an evening walking tour when the crowds and the heat have gone down a bit. Marvel at the art and architecture of Florence Rome has its fair share of great masterpieces (most of them are in the Vatican and Capitoline Museums), but art lovers won’t be able to resist Florence, which had more artists-in-residence during the renaissance than any other city – a fact which is evident in its architecture as well as its impressive galleries. An early train will get you there to tour the Uffizi Gallery in the morning, leaving the afternoon to visit the Accademia or climb the Duomo. Finish the day with a self-guided walking tour that takes in the Ponte Vecchio and the Piazza Della Signoria, where you can soak up the atmosphere over a cooling aperitif before heading home. Be immersed in the past at Pompeii Destroyed by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79AD, the city of Pompeii was only rediscovered in the 18th century, perfectly preserved by its covering of ash. As a result, almost everything we know about everyday Roman life comes from what archaeologists have discovered at Pompeii – which includes everything from vegetable gardens, bakeries and brothels to lamps, kitchen wares and even graffiti. You can easily spend a couple of hours wandering the ruins, but you’ll need to set off early to avoid being there in the middle of the day – there isn’t much shade in Pompeii. Once that’s done, you’ll have the afternoon free for hiking up said volcano, or you can backtrack to Naples for a pizza and spend the afternoon lounging on the beach with a gelato. Explore Rome with Go City Rome wasn’t built in a day, but you can easily see a lot of it in that time. Whether you prefer ancient ruins, renaissance splendour or baroque fountains, with a Go City Explorer Pass you’ll save time and money with discounted tickets and priority entry – so be sure to have a look at what else the eternal city has to offer!
Karleen Stevens
Woman taking photographs in a picturesque square in Trastevere, Rome
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Week in Rome

Planning to spend a week in Rome? Well, lucky you! Many visitors to the Eternal City make the error of booking just two or three days here, then end up rushing around, frantically trying to tick off as many bucket-list attractions as possible. The best way to experience this sometimes chaotic city is sloooowly, pausing for Italian espresso and cannoli when the mood takes you and lingering at attractions like the Colosseum and St Peter’s Basilica long enough to get a real feel for the place, rather than just a few hurried photographs. There’s so much to see and do in Rome. Seven days feels just about right to enjoy a relaxed sightseeing break and to really fall in love with the place. Do bear in mind though that time spent queueing at the more popular attractions will add up. So decide on your must-sees, book skip the line tickets where possible and be inspired by our suggested itinerary for a week in Rome. Day 1: Ancient Rome Good news! Many of the most sought-after attractions in Rome are within fairly easy walking distance of each other. It’s perfectly possible, for example, to experience the well-preserved ancient ruins of the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill in a single day. Start at the Colosseum, where a tour of the interior really brings this vast amphitheater to life. Close your eyes and imagine the roar of the crowd baying for thieves and swindlers to be thrown to the lions 2,000 years ago. Wander the avenues of the Roman Forum, taking in huge arches, ruined temples, great columns and spooky headless statues before heading up Palatine Hill. It’s here, among the colorful wildflowers, hilltop ruins and sweeping views of the ancient city, that Romulus and Remus, Rome’s mythical founders, are said to have been raised by a she-wolf. If you've got enough gas left in the tank after all that, spend your first evening in town getting to know atmospheric Piazza Navona, with its beautifully illuminated Bernini fountain, theatrical street entertainers and fairytale churches and palazzos. Day 2: Villa Borghese and a Few Bucket List Biggies This one is a little hectic, and you may wish to skip one or two of the attractions on the list and return to them on a less packed day. Start your morning with a visit to the Pantheon, one of Rome’s best-preserved Ancient Roman structures, with its fine portico featuring 12 grand Corinthian columns, checkerboard marble floors and impressive concrete dome complete with oculus, a central opening that allows sunlight (and indeed rain) to pour inside. It’s less than half a mile from here to the Trevi Fountain. And can you truly say you’ve visited Rome before you’ve jostled your way through the crowds to toss in your coin? Another half mile takes you to the foot of the Spanish Steps. Steel yourself for the 135-step climb to the top, where the majestic Trinità dei Monti church with its elaborate decorative features and pair of 17th-century anamorphic frescoes are your well-deserved reward. Spend the afternoon exploring Villa Borghese’s sumptuous formal gardens and exquisite villas, and pay a visit to the Galleria Borghese, where landmark works include Caravaggio’s Saint Jerome, Raphael’s Deposition, and Bernini’s Apollo and Daphne sculpture. Or, you know, just grab a smooth, creamy gelato and sit on the lawns people-watching for a few hours. Day 3: Trastevere A week in Rome most definitely merits at least one day spent exploring the medieval cobbled lanes, atmospheric alleyways and pretty piazzas of Trastevere, a laidback neighborhood just downriver from the Vatican. Here’s where to find beautiful churches, ocher-colored houses draped in vines and brightly blooming window boxes, and some of the finest pizza this side of Naples – wafer-thin, crispy crusted, wood-fired and fresh from the oven. A walk up Janiculum Hill reveals sweeping city panoramas, as well as plenty of Instagrammable attractions, including an imposing statue of Garibaldi on horseback, a monumental 17th-century fountain with marble carvings of eagles and dragons, and a sprawling botanical garden. Day 4: Museums and More If ancient artifacts are your thang, you’ve come to the right place. The Capitoline Museums atop Capitoline Hill are reached via a long and graceful Michelangelo-designed staircase, and the climb is well worth it for the multiple museums containing classical statues, medieval bronzes, Roman pottery and a veritable treasure trove of paintings and sculptures from the likes of Caravaggio, Rubens, Titian and van Dyck. Highlights here (and, believe us, there are many!) include the famous statue of the Dying Gaul and the symbolic Capitoline Wolf, a large bronze piece depicting the mythical Romulus and Remus being suckled by the she-wolf who raised them. Afterwards, wander downriver to take your chances with the Mouth of Truth (Bocca della Verità) – a forbidding medieval marble mask that invites you to place your hand inside its mouth, at peril of having it bitten clean off if you've ever told a lie. Then, hopefully with both hands intact, make your way to Aventine Hill for one of the coolest views in town: the dome of St Peter’s Basilica framed by an avenue of perfectly manicured cypress trees, seen through the keyhole of an otherwise fairly unassuming door. Magical. Day 5: The Appian Way A walk on the Appian Way is an absolute must when spending a whole week in Rome. Seemingly frozen in time, much of this ancient Roman road remains unaltered since Julius Caesar marched his armies along it 2,000 years ago. The fine cobbled avenue stretches around 40 miles south of the city (significantly shorter than in its heyday when it went all the way to Brindisi!). Beyond the soaring pines that flank the road are fields and fields containing dozens of ancient monuments to explore. We’re talking catacombs, mausoleums, temples, Roman baths and stacks more. Take a bike to cover more ground and make a real day out of it – a market-sourced picnic of salamis and cheeses will be the icing on the cake. Day 6: The Vatican Museums It should go without saying that the Vatican should be on your Rome itinerary and it’s worth setting a whole day aside for, just in case you become transfixed by the beauty of the Sistine Chapel Ceiling for, like, three hours (not entirely unheard of, but also not recommended unless you want to take home a neck brace as a souvenir of your visit). Other highlights of the Vatican’s complex of museums include Raphael’s unfinished Transfiguration, an ancient marble statue depicting Trojan priest Laocoön and his sons being attacked by sea serpents, and a gallery of fine 16th and 17th-century tapestries. Make sure to take a close look at the ceiling in this one: though apparently sculpted in relief, it is in fact completely flat. That’s down to 18th-century painters whose skill at painting light and shadow meant they were able to create an utterly convincing 3D illusion. Day 7: Souvenir Shopping Whaddya mean you haven’t bought any souvenirs to take home yet? Better get yourself down to the weekend Campagna Amico market by the Circus Maximus. This is the place for the best local produce, with everything sold here grown, reared, pressed, baked or brewed within a 100-kilometer radius. Pick up fruity Lazio wines, moreish extra virgin olive oils and fine cured meats to gift to friends and relatives, then head to Rome’s main tourist drags for the lovably naff novelty nick-nacks you so desperately need in your life: Colosseum keyrings, Trevi Fountain snow globes and plastic Pope Francis figurines for the win. Save on things to do in Rome Save on admission to Rome attractions with Go City. Check out @GoCity on Instagram and Facebook for the latest top tips and attraction info.
Stuart Bak
Couple with umbrellas in front of St Peter's Basilica in Rome
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Things to do in Rome when it rains

Not even Rome can escape the rain sometimes. But don't worry, there's still plenty to do that don't involve you getting soaked! Here are our suggestions to ensure you see the sights while staying dry.
Karleen Stevens

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