Barcelona ain’t no shrinking violet when it comes to great art. This, after all, is a city that nurtured the work of Salvador Dalí, Joan Miró and Pablo Picasso, all of whom are of course well represented in the city’s galleries and museums. But you need only wander the atmospheric streets to catch a glimpse of the good stuff, from edgy Poblenou street art to the eye-popping Gaudí architecture that characterizes Eixample and its most celebrated building, the mighty Sagrada Família. Aficionados of fine art will likely also have the Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art and Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya on their lists. But what does each have to offer? We take a close-up look in our MACBA vs MNAC comparison. Read on for the gen…
Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art: The Lowdown
Vital Statistics: Opened in 1995, MACBA is Barcelona’s premier museum of contemporary art, a great white sugar cube of a building located in El Raval neighborhood, a few blocks from the fabulous Gothic Quarter. The permanent collection of 5,000 works is exhibited across 45,000 square feet of gallery space, attracting over 300,000 visitors every year.
MACBA in Brief: Aficionados of post-war art, particularly of the Spanish and Catalan variety, will find much to admire at the Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art. Here’s where you can ogle iconic pieces by the likes of Picasso, Joan Miró and Juan Muñoz across several themed zones, as well as taking in rotating exhibitions celebrating experimental works by established and emerging international artists like Alexander Calder, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and the Guerrilla Girls. The MACBA building is something of a contemporary art icon itself; a modern, minimal Richard Meir-designed space with white walls, clean lines and plenty of natural light, that allows the artworks to speak for themselves. Don’t miss the striking central courtyard and the skateboarders out front, who are as much a part of the furniture here as the eye-popping art inside.
Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya: The Lowdown
Vital Statistics: An extraordinary collection spanning some 1,000 years of Catalan art, MNAC has been operating since 1934 here at the Palau Nacional, an Italianate confection high on Montjuïc hill that's almost as spectacular as the 300,000-strong collection it houses. At 113,000 square feet, it’s well over twice the size of MACBA, and pulls in close to a million annual visitors.
MNAC in Brief: The Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya (aka the National Art Museum of Catalonia; aka MNAC) is perhaps the planet’s best museum if you’re in the market for an overview of Catalan art across the centuries. We’re talking everything from thousand-year-old Romanesque church murals to medieval Gothic art, Baroque and Renaissance masterpieces, and works from the likes of Titian, Canaletto, Velázquez, Gaudí and more. Again, the building housing the collection only adds to the appeal, with a central dome inspired by St Peter's Basilica and a quartet of towers that nod to the architecture of Santiago de Compostela Cathedral.
MACBA: Highlights & What to Expect
The gallery spaces at MACBA really allow the art to shine, and it’s rarely so busy that you’re trying to glimpse that elusive Miró masterpiece over a sea of heads. The collection is also helpfully arranged into zones covering three distinct periods of modern art: the forties to the sixties, the sixties and seventies, and the contemporary period. The focus here is primarily on post-1945 Catalan and Spanish art, although some international artists are also represented, especially at rotating exhibitions which are well advertised on the official museum website. Highlights of the permanent collection include:
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Joan Miró’s ‘Oiseau’ sculptures are something of a centerpiece of MACBA: a mind-boggling collection of stylized heads, birds and other characters in bronze and terracotta.
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‘Sterno’ is a celebrated 1985 piece by Neo-expressionist artist Jean-Michel Basquiat. His homage to Afro-American cultural heroes features the intense brushstrokes and voodoo images that characterize his work.
- Spanish artist Ignasi Aballí pushes the boundaries of contemporary art with an approach that uses multiple layers of varnish and correction fluid to ‘suggest the presence of a painting rather than show the painting directly’. ‘Gran Error’ (‘Big Mistake’) is a thought-provoking case in point.
Pro-tip: entry to MACBA is free after 4PM on Saturdays. You can also save money on entry with a Barcelona pass from Go City, which includes access to MACBA and many more attractions, activities and tours around the city, including Gaudí’s Casa Batlló, a guided tour of the Sagrada Família, and more. Find out more about the pass and buy yours here.
MNAC: Highlights & What to Expect
There’s plenty more to see inside once you’re done gazing in awe at the soaring domes and Romanesque towers of the Palau Nacional’s stunning exterior – as well as the sweeping city views from atop Montjuïc hill. Weekday mornings are generally the best time to visit, especially outside of the summer season, when you’re far more likely to get to view the collection’s highlights unimpeded by fellow tourists. And oh, what highlights await within, such as…
- The Romanesque collection is perhaps the best and most important on the planet, an absolute treasure trove of Catalonian religious art from the 11th and 12th centuries, taking in frescoes, murals, stone carvings, intricately detailed wood panels and more. If you only see one piece, make it the ‘Apse of Sant Climent de Taull’, a colorful wall mural by the Master of Taull, one of 12th-century Europe’s absolute legends of Romanesque art. A key influence on Picasso, it’s quite the sight, and has been lovingly transferred onto a replica of its original apse at MNAC, for maximum authenticity.
- It may not look very comfortable, but Gaudí’s double sofa is a fine example of his lesser-spotted interior design work. Made for his Casa Batlló, it eschews right angles and straight lines in favor of ascending to the status of design icon. It’s displayed with the Modern Art Collection, alongside classical sculpture by Damià Campeny, landscape paintings by Joaquim Vayreda and much more.
- The Mural paintings of the Conquest of Majorca is effectively the Catalan Bayeux Tapestry, and its series of frescoes representing the titular 13th-century conquest dominates the museum’s Gothic art section. Not to be missed.
Pro-tip: admission to MNAC is free after 3PM on Saturdays and on the first Sunday of each month. You can book tickets for these as well as paid entry slots here.
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