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San Diego could well be the planet’s most haunted city. Or, certainly, the proliferation of ghost tours available in and around the Old Town would have you think so. Hit up the spookier-than-spooky Whaley House (built in the 19th century on the site of an old gallows, natch) for your main spectral fix. Here, in ‘the most haunted house in America’ (according to LIFE magazine) nearly two centuries of domestic tragedy make for perfect ghost-hunting fodder, with nerve-shredding night tours available led by ghoulish expert guides. Fearless travelers can also join terrifying walking tours Old Town burial grounds and the ghostly Gaslamp Quarter if they dare.

San Diego Zoo is one of the biggest and best-loved zoos on the entire planet, thanks to its size, variety, open-plan enclosures and very highly regarded conservation efforts. Excellent during the daytime, it’s arguably even better at night when the nocturnal critters start stirring from their daylight slumbers and getting ready for dinnertime. The night zoo operates through summer, adding tribal music, wildlife performers, acrobatics and more to an already fairly exotic roster of attractions that includes tropical aviaries, savannahs and Arctic environments.

A cruise of San Diego Bay is a great way to see the city sights and beautiful California coastline without lifting a finger (or indeed a foot). Sail across the harbor, taking in views of the dramatic skyline checking out attractions including the Coronado Bridge and USS Midway aircraft carrier. Up the ante on a bay dinner cruise – lucky punters may even catch a glimpse of the occasional migrating whale (blue in summer; gray in winter) as they tuck into dinner and cocktails and enjoy the on-board entertainment. Or grab dinner back on terra firma along the Embarcadero, where The Fish Market and rooftop Seneca Trattoria are solid bets. Afterwards, take a walk to the famous Kissing Statue – aka Unconditional Surrender – for maximum romantic waterfront vibes.

San Diego’s long and beautiful stretch of California coastline means just one thing: you absolutely must cozy up around a night time beach bonfire with friends and family. Grab your cookies, chocolate and marshmallows and hit up BBQ hotspots (no pun intended) at the likes of Mission Beach, La Jolla Shores and Coronado Beach. You’ll have to book your spot at the beach in front of the legendary Hotel del Coronado well in advance, but boy is it worth it. Perched right on the front overlooking Point Loma, ‘The Del’, with its distinctive conical turrets, is a Coronado institution. Here, families build sandcastles along the hotel’s fine band of golden sand, paddle-board in the lagoon, and gorge themselves silly on firepit s’mores at sunset.

Belmont Park is 100% SoCal nostalgia, a great big slice of old-school Americana right on Mission Beach. You can’t miss it really: its Giant Dipper, a century-old wooden roller coaster with major vintage vibes and even bigger drops, soars high over the boardwalk. With its bumper cars, cute carousel, arcade games and more, Belmont is great fun at any time of day. But perhaps especially so at night, with the rides light up like Christmas trees and the irresistible scents of hot dogs and cotton candy carry on the breeze, along with the delighted/terrified screams of the Giant Dipper riders and the sound of the surf. Lean into it all with a warm funnel cake that will leave you feeling more stuffed than the cuddly toy you won at the shooting galleries.

Microbrewing is big business in San Diego, where somewhere in the region of 150 independent breweries are thriving at any given time. You don’t have to walk very far to find a fine brewhouse or taproom, especially in hip enclaves like North Park, where colorful street art and beautiful beer make for fine bedfellows. Sup strong stouts at the Belching Beaver Brewery or grab a hazy IPA at the Fall Brewing Company. 

Mosey over to hippy-dippy Ocean Beach where sun-kissed vibes are the order of the day at the Ocean Beach Brewery, or strike out for the lovely gardens and outdoor games at Stone Brewing’s huge Liberty Station complex. Heck, if you fancy taking an immersive deep-dive into the best the ‘capital of craft’ has to offer, you can even go on a guided tour of multiple San Diego microbreweries. Or, as it used to be called, a bar crawl.  

The clue’s in the name: Sunset Cliffs just south of Ocean Beach is one of San Diego’s finest spots for watching the sun go down over the Bay. Take a flask of your favorite mocktail (non-alcoholic drinks only up here, we’re afraid) and enjoy the peace and relative solitude as the skies turn various shades of fiery orange, mustard yellow and burnt sienna over a petrol-blue sea. It’s the perfect setting for #humblebrag Insta shots and also (if you squint against the fading light) a pretty decent whale-watching spot, especially between December and April, when gray whales migrate en masse from Alaska to the warm calving grounds of Baja’s lagoons.

Balboa Park is a treat at any time, but lovely at night when its buildings are beautifully illuminated (if not necessarily open). The park’s most extraordinary architectural marvels were designed for Expos in the early 20th Century. Ogle the ornate Spanish Renaissance-style facade of the San Diego Museum of Art, featuring sculptures of Velázquez, Murillo and Zurbarán, pause for a pic in the Casa del Prado’s atmospheric cloisters, and listen out for the chime of the California Building’s bell tower with its eye-popping blend of Baroque, Churrigueresque, Rococo and Gothic architectural styles. 

There’s live music and theater at the Victorian Spreckels Organ Pavilion and Old Globe respectively, and you can unleash your inner kid on the old-fashioned carousel, a menagerie of brightly painted beasts that includes horses, giraffes, cats and a dragon!

San Diego’s lively nightlife scene runs the gamut from rowdy dive bar rockers to country classics and top-flight comedy. Hit up the open mic night at the American Comedy Company for some of the freshest new talent in California, grab dinner and a show at the legendary House of Blues, or bust some moves and get involved in raucous singalongs at the non-stop party that is The Shout! House’s Dueling Pianos show. You’ll find some of the music world’s biggest names dropping by Petco Park and Snapdragon Stadium on their world tours, while the Belly Up Tavern in Solana Beach has hosted gigs by everyone from BB King to the Black Eyed Peas.