Southbank London

Best walks in London

By Stuart Bak

“To walk alone in London is the greatest rest,” proclaimed Virginia Woolf in her 1927 essay Street Haunting. It’s hard to disagree: a stroll through London’s streets nourishes the soul. Here you’ll find all the familiar landmarks, and there unexpected marvels: parks that materialize as if from nowhere, quirky museums, hidden alleyways that lead... where?

Ask a local to recommend the best walk in London and you’ll get a different answer every time, such are the endless possibilities of this great city. Here, though, are four of our favorites.

Soho stroll

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It doesn’t get much more London than a saunter through the streets of Soho. Once the epicenter of London’s – shall we say – seamier entertainments, the district has shaken off much of its reputation to re-emerge as a bohemian mini metropolis, awash with cute cafés, independent stores and sizzling street food.

Arriving at Leicester Square station, take the Charing Cross Road East exit to emerge opposite this thoroughfare’s venerable second-hand bookstores, their Harry Potter-esque shopfronts stacked high with dusty leather-bound tomes, colorful pulp novels and weighty reference books. Pause for a selfie, then follow your nose to Chinatown. Here, red-and-gold lanterns sway above the street and tantalizing aromas of hoi-sin duck, plump dim sum and crispy chili beef provide a feast for the senses.

One block north of Chinatown brings you to Shaftesbury Avenue, a broad and bustling boulevard at the very heart of London’s west end, where acting legends tread the boards at theaters including (deep breath) the Lyric, the Gielgud, the Sondheim, the Apollo and the Palace. Wander up Dean Street to enter Soho proper and pause for un petit verre at The French House. This diminutive gallic stalwart has been here since the late 19th-century, lubricating art-and-literature aristocracy including Dylan Thomas, Salvador Dali and Francis Bacon down the years.

Swing right onto Old Compton Street then left at the Prince Edward Theatre to join Greek Street. Keep your eyes peeled for blue plaques that commemorate some of the street’s most celebrated former residents, from Thomas de Quincy to Peter Cook. Greek Street is also home to Maison Bertaux – at over 150 years old, quite probably the longest-established French patisserie in London – as well as whisky store Milroy’s. Intrepid visitors to this Scotch specialist should seek out the cocktail bar in the cellar, its entrance cunningly concealed behind a bookcase at the back of the shop.

Take the weight off for a moment in Soho Square, a small public garden with a statue of Charles II and an eye-catching mini mock-tudor building at its center, before heading a couple of blocks west to Berwick Street. Packed with vinyl record stores, clothes boutiques, haberdashers and traditional London boozers, it’s perhaps most famous for its centuries-old street market (now a foodie mecca) and for featuring on an Oasis record sleeve in the 90s. Linger awhile to soak up the boho atmosphere then disappear into the surrounding streets...

Regent’s Park

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With pristine white stucco terraces, manicured gardens galore, an ornamental lake and much more spread across its 400 acres, Regent’s Park has plenty to keep even the most seasoned stroller happy for hours. Enter by Regent’s Park station, and bear left towards the superb boating lake, where you can hire small row boats and pedalos from spring through fall. The banks make an ideal spot for picnicking, but expect some attention from the resident ducks, swans and geese. Look out for the vast copper dome of the Central London Mosque on the opposite bank.

Follow the path to the bandstand and into the Inner Circle to seek out Queen Mary’s Gardens, the park’s finest. Pause to smell the roses (take your time: there are thousands!) and linger in the tranquility of the Japanese-style garden with its babbling brooks, miniature waterfalls and weeping willows. At the top of the circle, you’ll find an open-air theater with performances of Shakespeare plays, kids’ shows and more during the summer months.

The distant sound of shrieking gibbons and roaring lions draws you northwards to ZSL London Zoo. Established nearly two centuries ago, it’s the world’s oldest and now houses over 750 species and nearly 20,000 critters, from tigers to tarantulas, okapis to otters. From here, cross the canal footbridge to climb Primrose Hill for far-reaching views of London’s skyline, or follow the meandering towpath west to Little Venice, where cute barges (including the UK’s only floating puppet theater!) bob gently in the lagoon.

The East End

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Perhaps best known for its darker associations with Jack The Ripper, London’s East End has ushered in the modern while retaining the best of its Victorian character. Exit Liverpool Street station, head along Bishopsgate and right onto Folgate Street, where Dennis Severs’ House, a mesmerizing throwback to a bygone era, is worth an hour of anyone's time. Continue to Commercial Street, past sprawling Spitalfields Market, and pause for refreshment at the Ten Bells. This cozy pub stands in the shadow of Christ Church – an imposing 18th-century Hawksmoor masterpiece – and was once frequented by victims of Jack The Ripper.

A couple of blocks east is Brick Lane, where Bangladeshi and Jewish influences still happily prevail in spite of the area’s ongoing gentrification. It’s here you’ll find the finest bagels and curries in all of London. Try both: you won’t regret it. Brick Lane is also home to the landmark Truman Brewery building. Once a beer-making powerhouse, now an office block, it retains a convivial cobbled courtyard with a bar and live music in summer.

This is also the place to cram shopping bags full of vintage fashions, vinyl records and, of course, fresh spices and exotic fruits – no trip to Brick Lane would be complete without a visit to the legendary Taj Stores. Finish your tour at the bottom of the street where modern art exhibitions and installations are free to enter at the wonderful Whitechapel Gallery.

South Bank to the Tower

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Stretch your legs a little on this three-mile route that takes in bustling markets, Shakespearean theaters, royal palaces, and some of the finest river views you’re likely to encounter in London. Emerging at Embankment station, climb the stairs onto the Hungerford footbridge. Buskers perform for your entertainment as you cross, but they’re fighting a losing battle against the captivating views: St Paul’s Cathedral, The Shard, Big Ben, the London Eye... to name just a few.

Stroll through the South Bank’s cultural heart, home to the Royal Festival Hall and National Film Theatre. Beneath these fantastic examples of brutalist architecture, kids show off their moves in the graffiti’d skatepark and a cavalcade of street entertainers vie for your attention (and cash).

Follow the river past the landmark Oxo Tower to the Tate Modern and onwards to the Globe Theater, a stunning replica of the Elizabethan playhouse for which Shakespeare wrote his plays. Completed in the mid-1990s, this authentic timber-framed reconstruction boasts the only thatched roof permitted in London since the Great Fire of 1666.

Your walk continues east to the atmospheric cobbled lanes around Southwark and London Bridge, where you’ll encounter the infamous Clink Prison and a faithful reproduction of Sir Francis Drake’s Golden Hind galleon. Railway bridges rumble overhead as you follow your nose into Borough Market, where restaurant-quality fast food will fortify you for the final leg of your adventure. Here, every palate is catered for. Grab a halloumi burger or smoked salmon bagel, try melt-in-the-mouth confit duck or make a mess with delicious, oozing cheese raclette. The leafy grounds of medieval Southwark Cathedral, right next to the market, provide a tranquil setting to savor your meal and watch the world go by.

We challenge you not to hum the famous nursery rhyme as you cross London Bridge and join the Thames Path east to the Tower of London: awe-inspiring fortress, royal palace, notorious prison, and home of the Crown Jewels. It’s here, among the resident ravens and the Yeoman Guards in their smart red-and navy livery, that your journey concludes.

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Colorful shopfronts of Neal's Yard Covent Garden
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Things to do in Covent Garden London

Part of London’s West End leisure district, Covent Garden is a lively mix of museums, performance spaces, independent traders and traditional British boozers (pubs). Seemingly a contraction of ‘convent garden’, the area comprised orchards and farmland owned by the church until Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries, after which a fruit and vegetable market flourished until the 1970s. It is also a part of London’s ‘theatreland’, second only to Broadway in scope and talent. Although best-known for the street performers that occupy its pedestrianized piazza each day bar December 25, there are many more things to do in Covent Garden London and ways to spend your time. These are some of our favorites. Take in the market stalls The era of fruit and vegetable sales may be well and truly in the past – with New Covent Garden Market in Nine Elms fulfilling this function – but that doesn’t mean the neighborhood has said goodbye to its traders completely. Almost all the images you’ll see of Covent Garden are of the green-painted ironwork and glazing of the Apple Market, dating to its reconstruction in the 19th Century. Along its flanks are stores recognizable from any British high street, with its center given over to stall holders selling a range of gifts, clothes and antiques. The Jubilee Hall Market, completed in 1904, sits on the south side of the piazza with another pick of stalls. Their goods range from the so-bad-they’re-good souvenirs to genuine antiques. Open daily, Mondays are dedicated to the antiques trade whilst Saturdays and Sundays are given over to London’s artists and craftspeople. The rest of the week you can expect an assortment of stalls. Towards the neighborhood’s northern reaches lies Seven Dials, incorporating Neal’s Yard. This area’s stores can come as something of a shock to those used to the grand stone facades of much of London. That’s because their mishmash of brickwork and colorful exteriors are an indication of their independent ownership and style. Delve into the museums On the east side of the piazza you’ll find the flower market turned London Transport Museum. Packed with old buses, trams (streetcars) and trains, as well as era-defining imagery and early versions of the London Underground map, this child-friendly celebration of transportation isn’t just for nerds. One of the newest things to do in Covent Garden is visit the London Film Museum, first opened in 2008. Dedicated to the movie industry, its collection includes a variety of costumes and props you’ll recognize from the big screen, with the James Bond franchise one of dozens of movies represented. But for the lowdown on London’s top cameo appearances, you’ll want to join a Brit Movie Tour. With 10 different tours to pick from, now’s the chance you’ve been waiting for to enter the world of movies such as Harry Potter or James Bond and television hits including Downton Abbey and Killing Eve. Straddling the southwest corner of the neighborhood is Trafalgar Square. Constructed to commemorate the victory over Napoleon in 1805, Nelson’s Column was erected by public subscription in the 1860s. It stands in pride of place outside of the National Gallery and connected National Portrait Gallery. Together they form one of the world’s most important art collections. Paintings by Vincent Van Gogh, Leonardo da Vinci and Johannes Vermeer are joined by the many greats of British painting, from John Constable to J M W Turner. Enjoy a night at the theater Back in the heart of Covent Garden, the Royal Opera House began life in the 1730s as one of just two spaces in London permitted by the king to put on plays. Several rebirths later, it was chosen by Germano-British composer – and favorite of George III – George Frideric Handel as the auditorium to debut many of his works and has also been the home of the Royal Ballet since 1946. To take a peek inside when there’s no performance scheduled opt for a guided tour instead. Another big name in the neighborhood linked to the arts is the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane – the oldest theater in London to be in continuous use as a playhouse. It has a history that dates back to 1663 and includes performances by Nell Gwyn – the actress mistress of Charles II – and comedy troupe Monty Python. The latest big name in comedy might well be discovered on the cobblestones of the piazza, since its street performers have to audition in front of Covent Garden’s management before being given a location and time slot in which to hit the heady heights of stardom or flop into oblivion. Admire Covent Garden’s architecture Not to be confused with the nearby cathedral, St Paul’s Church is literally unmissable since it stands immediately opposite the Apple Market. Also known as the actors’ church because of its close association with the neighborhood’s theaters – it hosts its very own acting company. Originally designed by Inigo Jones alongside the piazza, its small churchyard provides a much-needed area of greenery too. In an area so rich in architecture it can be difficult to see the wood for the trees – or the sculpture for the stone – but somewhere you’re not going to want to miss Somerset House. Its central courtyard has been widely-adopted by the public, with fountains and movie screenings in the summer and an ice rink during the Christmas period. Inside, the main exhibition space to look out for belongs to the Courtauld Institute. Spanning several centuries of European art, its bright galleries contain works by Botticelli and Bruegel. Uncover Covent Garden with Go City If you’ve been wondering about the things to do in Covent Garden London, here’s you answer. Still home to market stalls as it has been for centuries, there’s also historic performance spaces like the Royal Opera House and museums including those dedicated to art, transportation and the movie industry. That’s a lot to add to your London itinerary! Travel with Go City for substantial savings on admission to many of the top attractions. It not only covers Covent Garden but the entire British capital from Hampton Court Palace in the west to the Tower of London in the east to ensure you don’t face any nasty credit card bills when your return home!
Ian Packham
The Tower of London will a foreground of fallen leaves
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What to do in London in November

Fall is kind to the British capital, and London in November isn’t short of local color. In addition to its year-round historic attractions, the Royal Parks are a swirl of oranges and reds as the London planes lose their leaves. The start of the month sees Diwali and Guy Fawkes’s Night ignite the sky with fireworks, followed quickly by Christmas light switch-ons and shopfronts dolled up for the festive season. Wondering what to do in London in November? You’ve come to the right place! Cruise along the Thames The River Thames has been at London’s heart since the Romans converted a humble Saxon village into a city worthy of becoming the future British capital. Its banks are the location of an array of major landmarks, from the Whispering Gallery of St Paul’s Cathedral to the contemporary form of Tate Modern’s $360m Switch House, expanding the gallery’s floor space by 60%. Bringing together the rival north and south of the Thames, its bridges are some of the most recognizable structures in the world, with Tower Bridge a symbol for both London and the UK. Slipping beneath them on a Thames river cruise adds a new dimension to hop-on hop-off sightseeing tours. Hop on and see the sights in comfort. Hop off to explore attractions such as the Cutty Sark and historic dockyards of Greenwich. Time it right, and you’ll capture the capital at its most romantic, as dusk settles over its parks and monuments and lights flicker on along its banks. Celebrate Guy Fawkes’ Night The grisly origins of Guy Fawkes’ Night (or Bonfire Night) are intricately linked to several London attractions, not least the Houses of Parliament and Tower of London. One of the biggest nights of the cultural calendar, the festivities now extend from Halloween until the big day itself on November 5. Neighborhoods large and small mark the event with organized fireworks displays and the lighting of bonfires. Some of the biggest and most spectacular take place at Battersea Park and Alexandra Palace. Topping many bonfires will be a representation of Guy Fawkes himself, whose band of Catholic rebels attempted to blow up Protestant King James I in the Houses of Parliament in 1605. If you’re wondering where the Tower of London fits in to all this – the plot was discovered, and Fawkes arrested. Imprisoned in the tower, he was tortured on the rack before being hung, drawn and quartered. His head ended up on a spike on London Bridge. Take in a show London’s West End is probably only second to New York’s Broadway when it comes to its shows. Whilst you’ll find theaters dotted right throughout the capital, Shaftesbury Avenue continues to be the place to head. It stretches from Piccadilly Circus and the Statue of Eros to New Oxford Street and the Georgian townhouses that lead towards the British Museum. Shaftesbury Avenue, together with the cobblestone streets around Covent Garden, are home to all sorts of characters – on and off the stage – who seem to come to life beneath the twinkling Christmas lights of late November. New shows are opening all the time, although some have serious staying power. Agatha Christie’s The Mousetrap is one, holding the record for the longest theater run in the world. It’s first night was back in 1952. For festive fun and a huge dose of British custom look no further than the annual pantomimes (or pantos) at theaters like the Palladium. A mix of fairy tales and folk legends – from Cinderella to Peter Pan – they see British audiences at their most boisterous and gleeful. Explore Westminster Abbey In a city of historic structures, few beside the Tower of London can compete with the heritage of Westminster Abbey. Hidden from the riverside by the Houses of Parliament, this royal church has witnessed the coronation of every British monarch since William the Conqueror in 1066, and was the setting for the marriage of Prince William to Catherine Middleton. Site of the grave of the Unknown Warrior and center of the capital’s November memorial services, the cathedral contains over 3000 burials, with kings accompanying prime ministers and notables such as physicist Stephen Hawking. The abbey’s soaring gothic edifice is home to many treasures including the Coronation Throne, a simple chair of English oak, dating to 1296. But when it comes to hidden gems, this title has to go to the Jewel Tower, built as a treasure house for King Edward III in around 1365. Few Londoners have even heard of it, although it’s one of only two buildings to have survived the fire which engulfed the original Houses of Parliament in the early 1800s. Tour the capital’s markets When the weather holds, the capital’s markets are attractive propositions for any list of things to do in London in November. Often situated in some of the capital’s most interesting neighborhoods, a smooch around their stalls acts as the perfect gateway to experiencing life in Britain’s biggest city. They’re also sure to never be far from a historic pub with a cozy fireplace serving the nation’s famously warm beers. Borough Market, for instance, has been reborn from a sorry spot between London Bridge and the Globe theater to a destination well worth seeking out for its own merits. On its edges you’ll find several noteworthy pubs, including The George Inn, which dates back to the 17th century. Delve a little further, and you’ll encounter flavorful foods from every corner of the globe, as well as traditional British favorites from fish and chips to pie and mash. Alternatively, make your way to the pastel shades of West London’s Portobello Road, whose weekly antiques market is a great place to pick up quirky mementos. But wherever you find yourself in London in November, it’s likely there’s a market somewhere close. Save on London November attraction admission November in London can be glorious. Although the year might be coming to a close, there are arguably more places to visit in London in November than at other times of year. What’s more, you can explore many of the British capital’s top attractions with Go City, giving you flexibility whilst saving in one of the world’s most evocative yet expensive cities.
Ian Packham

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