Southbank London

Best walks in London

By Stuart Bak

“To walk alone in London is the greatest rest,” proclaimed Virginia Woolf in her 1927 essay Street Haunting. It’s hard to disagree: a stroll through London’s streets nourishes the soul. Here you’ll find all the familiar landmarks, and there unexpected marvels: parks that materialize as if from nowhere, quirky museums, hidden alleyways that lead... where?

Ask a local to recommend the best walk in London and you’ll get a different answer every time, such are the endless possibilities of this great city. Here, though, are four of our favorites.

Soho stroll

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It doesn’t get much more London than a saunter through the streets of Soho. Once the epicenter of London’s – shall we say – seamier entertainments, the district has shaken off much of its reputation to re-emerge as a bohemian mini metropolis, awash with cute cafés, independent stores and sizzling street food.

Arriving at Leicester Square station, take the Charing Cross Road East exit to emerge opposite this thoroughfare’s venerable second-hand bookstores, their Harry Potter-esque shopfronts stacked high with dusty leather-bound tomes, colorful pulp novels and weighty reference books. Pause for a selfie, then follow your nose to Chinatown. Here, red-and-gold lanterns sway above the street and tantalizing aromas of hoi-sin duck, plump dim sum and crispy chili beef provide a feast for the senses.

One block north of Chinatown brings you to Shaftesbury Avenue, a broad and bustling boulevard at the very heart of London’s west end, where acting legends tread the boards at theaters including (deep breath) the Lyric, the Gielgud, the Sondheim, the Apollo and the Palace. Wander up Dean Street to enter Soho proper and pause for un petit verre at The French House. This diminutive gallic stalwart has been here since the late 19th-century, lubricating art-and-literature aristocracy including Dylan Thomas, Salvador Dali and Francis Bacon down the years.

Swing right onto Old Compton Street then left at the Prince Edward Theatre to join Greek Street. Keep your eyes peeled for blue plaques that commemorate some of the street’s most celebrated former residents, from Thomas de Quincy to Peter Cook. Greek Street is also home to Maison Bertaux – at over 150 years old, quite probably the longest-established French patisserie in London – as well as whisky store Milroy’s. Intrepid visitors to this Scotch specialist should seek out the cocktail bar in the cellar, its entrance cunningly concealed behind a bookcase at the back of the shop.

Take the weight off for a moment in Soho Square, a small public garden with a statue of Charles II and an eye-catching mini mock-tudor building at its center, before heading a couple of blocks west to Berwick Street. Packed with vinyl record stores, clothes boutiques, haberdashers and traditional London boozers, it’s perhaps most famous for its centuries-old street market (now a foodie mecca) and for featuring on an Oasis record sleeve in the 90s. Linger awhile to soak up the boho atmosphere then disappear into the surrounding streets...

Regent’s Park

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With pristine white stucco terraces, manicured gardens galore, an ornamental lake and much more spread across its 400 acres, Regent’s Park has plenty to keep even the most seasoned stroller happy for hours. Enter by Regent’s Park station, and bear left towards the superb boating lake, where you can hire small row boats and pedalos from spring through fall. The banks make an ideal spot for picnicking, but expect some attention from the resident ducks, swans and geese. Look out for the vast copper dome of the Central London Mosque on the opposite bank.

Follow the path to the bandstand and into the Inner Circle to seek out Queen Mary’s Gardens, the park’s finest. Pause to smell the roses (take your time: there are thousands!) and linger in the tranquility of the Japanese-style garden with its babbling brooks, miniature waterfalls and weeping willows. At the top of the circle, you’ll find an open-air theater with performances of Shakespeare plays, kids’ shows and more during the summer months.

The distant sound of shrieking gibbons and roaring lions draws you northwards to ZSL London Zoo. Established nearly two centuries ago, it’s the world’s oldest and now houses over 750 species and nearly 20,000 critters, from tigers to tarantulas, okapis to otters. From here, cross the canal footbridge to climb Primrose Hill for far-reaching views of London’s skyline, or follow the meandering towpath west to Little Venice, where cute barges (including the UK’s only floating puppet theater!) bob gently in the lagoon.

The East End

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Perhaps best known for its darker associations with Jack The Ripper, London’s East End has ushered in the modern while retaining the best of its Victorian character. Exit Liverpool Street station, head along Bishopsgate and right onto Folgate Street, where Dennis Severs’ House, a mesmerizing throwback to a bygone era, is worth an hour of anyone's time. Continue to Commercial Street, past sprawling Spitalfields Market, and pause for refreshment at the Ten Bells. This cozy pub stands in the shadow of Christ Church – an imposing 18th-century Hawksmoor masterpiece – and was once frequented by victims of Jack The Ripper.

A couple of blocks east is Brick Lane, where Bangladeshi and Jewish influences still happily prevail in spite of the area’s ongoing gentrification. It’s here you’ll find the finest bagels and curries in all of London. Try both: you won’t regret it. Brick Lane is also home to the landmark Truman Brewery building. Once a beer-making powerhouse, now an office block, it retains a convivial cobbled courtyard with a bar and live music in summer.

This is also the place to cram shopping bags full of vintage fashions, vinyl records and, of course, fresh spices and exotic fruits – no trip to Brick Lane would be complete without a visit to the legendary Taj Stores. Finish your tour at the bottom of the street where modern art exhibitions and installations are free to enter at the wonderful Whitechapel Gallery.

South Bank to the Tower

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Stretch your legs a little on this three-mile route that takes in bustling markets, Shakespearean theaters, royal palaces, and some of the finest river views you’re likely to encounter in London. Emerging at Embankment station, climb the stairs onto the Hungerford footbridge. Buskers perform for your entertainment as you cross, but they’re fighting a losing battle against the captivating views: St Paul’s Cathedral, The Shard, Big Ben, the London Eye... to name just a few.

Stroll through the South Bank’s cultural heart, home to the Royal Festival Hall and National Film Theatre. Beneath these fantastic examples of brutalist architecture, kids show off their moves in the graffiti’d skatepark and a cavalcade of street entertainers vie for your attention (and cash).

Follow the river past the landmark Oxo Tower to the Tate Modern and onwards to the Globe Theater, a stunning replica of the Elizabethan playhouse for which Shakespeare wrote his plays. Completed in the mid-1990s, this authentic timber-framed reconstruction boasts the only thatched roof permitted in London since the Great Fire of 1666.

Your walk continues east to the atmospheric cobbled lanes around Southwark and London Bridge, where you’ll encounter the infamous Clink Prison and a faithful reproduction of Sir Francis Drake’s Golden Hind galleon. Railway bridges rumble overhead as you follow your nose into Borough Market, where restaurant-quality fast food will fortify you for the final leg of your adventure. Here, every palate is catered for. Grab a halloumi burger or smoked salmon bagel, try melt-in-the-mouth confit duck or make a mess with delicious, oozing cheese raclette. The leafy grounds of medieval Southwark Cathedral, right next to the market, provide a tranquil setting to savor your meal and watch the world go by.

We challenge you not to hum the famous nursery rhyme as you cross London Bridge and join the Thames Path east to the Tower of London: awe-inspiring fortress, royal palace, notorious prison, and home of the Crown Jewels. It’s here, among the resident ravens and the Yeoman Guards in their smart red-and navy livery, that your journey concludes.

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Shopping in December lets visitors enjoy the Christmas lights
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Your Complete Guide to London in December

If you thought London was a city solely for the summer months, think again. Because London in December sees the British capital at probably its most colorful of the year. Few can avoid getting in the Christmas spirit, before turning their attention to the south bank of the River Thames and the nation’s foremost fireworks display to bring in the New Year in style. With all that in mind, here’s your complete guide to what’s going on in London in December, so you don’t miss a thing. Shop till you drop Forget what you’ve seen in the movies, you’ll need to be lucky to encounter any snowfall in London at Christmas. With average December lows of 5°C, snowmen are more likely in February. But this takes nothing away from the Christmas atmosphere, which sweeps across the capital’s streets and storefronts from the end of November. From Abbey Road to Lambeth Palace, Carnaby Street to St Katharine Docks, London’s sidewalks are bright with an array of lights, adding a further attraction to the window displays of shops big and small. Not too far away, London’s largest Christmas tree – an annual gift from the Norwegian capital topping out at around 20 meters high – takes center stage in Trafalgar Square. Christmas markets occupy other well-known spaces, including Leicester Square and the riverbank in front of Tower Bridge and City Hall, where last minute gifts and traditional festive treats jostle for attention. Never one to rest on its laurels, as soon as the big day is over, the focus moves to the Boxing Day sales of December 26, which has been a date to circle in the diary long before the advent of Black Friday. Aim to get there before sun up for the very best deals. Enjoy the capital’s historic attractions in a new way Even if you’ve visited London before, December offers many new experiences at some of the city’s most famous sites. The UNESCO-enshrined Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew puts on a dazzling display of lights and colorful projected images every evening from dusk. Hyde Park becomes the location of a huge combined fun fair and Christmas market, perhaps best taken in from its dedicated observation wheel. Alternatively, you might prefer to cheer on the brave souls who take part in the Peter Pan Cup. A swimming competition in Hyde Park’s Serpentine Lake, it has taken place on Christmas Day since 1864 in one of the capital’s stranger traditions. If you prefer your water even colder, look no further than the temporary outdoor ice rinks that appear at many of London’s most-loved attractions during December. Kensington’s Natural History Museum, The Strand’s Somerset House and even Hampton Court Palace provide extraordinary backdrops to a quick spin on the ice followed by a warming mug of hot chocolate. Experience the UK’s top Christmas events Christmas in London sees Christopher Wren’s masterwork, St Paul’s Cathedral, and the thousand-year-old Westminster Abbey both present a series of traditional carol services which fill their august spaces with stunning vocals. The Royal Albert Hall has an equally impressive program of concerts, ranging from Christmas classics played by big bands to performances of Handel’s Messiah. Heading to a ballet performance is another popular London December tradition. Shows with winter themes such as The Nutcracker grace the stages of several major theaters, and are bound to bring back a sense of childhood glee. For an altogether less-serious evening out, it has to be a panto performance, filled with slap-stick comedy, audience participation and men dressed in drag. But don’t be misled by the brash colors and fairy-tale plots, there’s serious acting going on here, with everyone from Sir Ian McKellen (The Lord of the Rings’ Gandalf) to Hollywood ‘giant’ Mickey Rooney having taken to the pantomime stage. Oh no they didn’t – oh yes they did! But when it comes to events in London in December, few can compete with the capital’s annual New Year’s Eve fireworks display. Launched from barges on the Thames and the 32 pods of the London Eye, the display takes eight technicians a week to wire up the seven tons of explosives needed for the 10-minute show. Dazzling audiences since its inception in the year 2000, it can be enjoyed from various high points around the city, as well as the river bank and the comfort of sofas in well-heated bars just about everywhere. Eat, drink and be merry With 60-plus Michelin star restaurants at your fingertips, London’s food scene takes some beating. Even if your budget doesn’t quite stretch to beef aged for 90 days in Himalayan salt chambers and desserts decorated with 24-carat gold leaf, you’ll still find plenty of choice. Don’t get caught out though – many restaurants (and attractions) close their doors on Christmas Day to give their staff a well-earned rest. Even those that do open – and Chinatown is always a good bet – get booked up early and can be difficult to reach without London’s usual transportation options, which also cease for the day. Roast turkey has been the Christmas Day meal of choice since at least the time of Henry VIII, and will be served with ‘all the trimmings’. These include Brussel sprouts, honey-roasted parsnips, sage and onion stuffing, pigs in blankets (that’s sausages wrapped in bacon) and roasted potatoes. Traditionally made with suet, Christmas pudding is another must try, being loaded with dried fruits, spices and a liberal quantity of alcohol before being served with hot custard (crème anglais). You’ll find mince pies (which are nothing to do with ground beef) dusted in icing sugar and on display at pretty much every bakery, café and supermarket in the capital in December. Many Brits, Londoners included, then head out for a post-meal walk, which may involve a stop off at a local pub. Whether they’re open or not will largely depend on where you’re located – central London takes on the air of a ghost town on December 25. Those on popular walking routes are more likely to be open than those on streets like The Strand, although probably for no more than a few hours in the afternoon. Hotel bars are likely to remain open for longer. Save on London December attraction admission Admission to many of London’s top attractions and activities can be enjoyed at a reduced rate with Go City. Our Explorer Pass includes admission to a range of London attractions, while giving you the flexibility to do what you want, when you want, without having to make any decisions beforehand. If London’s December weather lets you down, there’s no need to rearrange the plans for your entire stay. In fact, with Go City you don’t need a plan at all.
Ian Packham
A cable car crossing the Thames at sunset
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Things to do in Greenwich London

History seeps from every cobblestone street and blade of grass in Greenwich. An area first recorded more than a thousand years ago in 918, it sits on the south bank of the River Thames to the east of central London, stretching around the banking center of Canary Wharf and docklands. Overflowing with royal heritage, and the meeting point of the eastern and western hemispheres, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is not to be missed. From its parks to its panoramas of London, here are the top things to do in Greenwich London. Head back in time Standing proud in dry dock close to the entrance of Greenwich foot tunnel, the Cutty Sark was once one of the most important ships in Britain’s merchant fleet – tasked with transporting tea from Shanghai as quickly as the winds would allow. Becoming the fastest vessel to ever undertake the 3.5 month journey, it is the only ship of its kind in the northern hemisphere and provides an immersive way of experiencing what life must have been like on the high seas during the 1800s. Pass through the colonnaded central avenue of the Old Royal Naval College – created so views of the Thames from Queen’s House weren’t obstructed – and you’ll reach the National Maritime Museum. With the navy integral to Britain’s history, the museum has managed to collect over two million objects since it was opened in 1934, including Turner’s largest ever painting and the jacket that Nelson was wearing when he was fatally wounded at the Battle of Trafalgar. Take in the views Views back towards central London’s neighborhoods aren’t hard to find, with Greenwich Park providing ample. However, Greenwich doesn’t disappoint when it comes to vistas beyond the ordinary either. Those with a head for heights can scale London’s O2 Arena for uninterrupted 360° views not only of Greenwich, but also Canary Wharf and the 2012 Olympic Park – including the AcerlorMittal Orbit Tower. Or you could drift over the Thames with the 10 minute one way journey on London’s only cable car, the Emirates Air Line. But given its naval heritage and being so close to the river, the top way to take in the sights has to be aboard a Thames sightseeing cruise departing from Greenwich Pier. With three additional points to hop-on and off, they provide an alternative route to the Houses of Parliament and St Paul’s than the city’s Underground network. Enjoy a park full of treasures Despite this range of attractions, Greenwich is most famous for its Royal Observatory, located within Greenwich Park. Commissioned by Charles II in 1675, it became a major center for astronomy and navigation, before also being designated the site of the prime meridian in the nineteenth century. A plaque and green laser mark the point at which the eastern and western hemispheres of the Earth meet. Turn south towards the deer park to take in another of the park’s sights – The Wernher Collection at Ranger’s House. (Forget about any signs to the park’s Roman Ruins, which aren’t visible). The red brick edifice of Ranger’s House, by contrast, couldn’t be a better place to explore the 700 piece collection of Sir Julius Wernher. An extraordinary private collection of paintings, Renaissance jewelry, bronzes and carved ivory, it’s a museum which deserves better recognition than it usually receives. Explore modern Greenwich Walking distance from the main historical sites, Greenwich Market brings additional vibrancy to the neighborhood. Protected from the weather, this covered market contains around 120 stalls loaded with antiques, handmade arts and crafts from local creators and street food picks from around the world, including a good range of gluten-free and vegan options. Whilst some of the dishes these stalls produce are worthy of gallery space, the exhibitions at North Greenwich’s NOW Gallery will impress all the more. Its usual focus is on the area’s diversity, sharing the work of artists, designers and creatives from a range of backgrounds. Contemporary art, fashion and photography are all included. To see the latest in funny, check out the Up the Creek Comedy Club, who combine old and new world beers brewed on a daily basis using batch micro-brewing techniques with some of the UK’s top talent. Blackout nights add a talent show feek to the open mic nights. Its Sunday Special nights have been going strong since 2005, and often sees unadvertised performances from household names including Michael McIntyre and Flight of the Conchords. Get involved with special events Sometimes compared to a riverine version of the London Marathon, the Great River Race sees up to 300 oared craft race each other in a handicapped competition from Greenwich to Ham. Growing in popularity each September, every vessel is required to fly a flag and winners are not just those who cross the finish line first 34 kilometers later, but also those with the best fancy dress. Move over the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race! September also sees the city wide Open House event, revealing usually hidden parts of Greenwich to the general public. Sites that have previously welcomed visitors for this special event have included Joseph Bazalgette’s Pumping Station from 1859 and Nicholas Hawksmoor’s Church of St Alfege. Earlier on in the year, at the start of the summer festival season in June, there’s the Greenwich+Docklands International Festival. Celebrating the performing arts, the 10 day event has around 200 different individual performances, from small-scale theatrical shows to huge outdoor acrobatic displays. What to do in Greenwich London When it comes to things to do in Greenwich London, visitors don’t have to look very hard, with the complex of royal museums, park and market providing a worthwhile pull east from the center of the British capital. Travel with Go City and you’ll also get incredible savings on attraction admission for many of the neighborhood’s top sites. That way you can straddle the globe’s hemispheres at the Royal Observatory and enjoy a cruise along the Thames towards the Houses of Parliament safe in the knowledge that you could be saving hour after hour and attraction by attraction.
Ian Packham

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