Exploring some of the planet’s best-preserved Ancient Roman architecture, wandering cobbled lanes lined with swoonsome palazzi and picture-perfect ocher-colored houses, or just watching the world go by over espresso at a sidewalk café: there’s really something for everyone in Rome’s patchwork of 21 districts, or rione. Hop aboard for our whistle-stop tour of seven of the best neighborhoods in Rome.
Centro Storico
Right in the heart of the action, Rome’s historic center is unquestionably the best place to start your voyage of discovery in this ancient city. The name is really a catch-all for the relatively compact area that encompasses – deep breath – the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, the Capitoline Museums and the Circus Maximus. And that’s just for starters. This magical labyrinth of atmospheric cobbled alleys, sprawling baroque piazzas and gleaming Renaissance palaces is a treasure trove for history lovers and, well, anyone with even a passing interest in beautiful art or architecture (you’ll find works by the likes of Caravaggio, Bernini and Michelangelo in many of the museums and churches around these parts). And, if it all gets too much, you can always rest up with tagliatelle at a traditional trattoria or people-watch over coffee and cannoli at a cute café. Afterwards, head over to the Largo di Torre Argentina, home of Rome’s biggest cat sanctuary, to spot felines basking in the sunshine amid the ancient ruins of Roman Republican temples and the Theatre of Pompey.
Tridente
Tridente picks up where the historic center left off, and is loosely defined as the area around the triple-prong of streets that radiate out south from Piazza del Popolo, a vast cobbled square lined with churches and palazzi, as well as several grand fountains and a monumental Egyptian obelisk (they don't do things by half in Rome). It’s here you can get kitted out in the finest Italian fashions in the boutiques on and around Via dei Condotti. We’re talking Gucci, Fendi, Armani, Valentino et al, so be prepared to splurge. Suitably attired, make for the Trevi Fountain where you can indulge in the age-old tradition of throwing in a coin. Assuming you have any left, that is. Then give the quads a workout on the 135-step climb up the Spanish Steps. At the top sits the magnificent Renaissance confection that is the Trinità dei Monti church. Step into its cool interior, where a pair of anamorphic frescoes from the 17th Century are among the many splendid decorative features.
Monti
Crammed in between the Colosseum, the Quirinal Hill, and the Santa Maria Maggiore basilica, diminutive Monti is an attraction all of its own. Ivy climbs ocher-colored houses and wraps itself round iron balconies and locals chatter over morning coffee on the picturesque piazzas. In case it wasn’t already obvious, this largely residential Rome neighborhood is a photographer’s paradise. Budding snappers should head to La Casetta, a tiny trattoria for which the term ‘ivy-clad’ is something of an understatement – it’s virtually drowning in the stuff! Or make for Piazza della Madonna dei Monti, a vibrant square where sunset Aperols are accompanied by sensational views of the Colosseum silhouetted against the skyline.
Monteverde Vecchio
The clue’s in the name here: Monteverde Vecchio is one of the greenest neighborhoods in Rome. Go here to seek respite from the urban sprawl and enjoy the fresh air and tranquility promised by the Janiculum Hill and the expanse of landscaped gardens surrounding the grand Villa Doria Pamphili.
Trastevere
Just downriver from the Vatican, Trastevere is another of those Rome neighborhoods that just begs to be photographed, chock-full as it is of café-lined piazzas, achingly picturesque medieval churches and those familiar ocher-colored houses sporting quirky cast-iron door knockers and brightly painted window shutters. Grab a gelato and stroll across medieval Ponte Sisto to Piazza Trilussa, where locals meet and mingle in the evening by the monumental fountain. Visit the fine botanical garden that overlooks baroque Palazzo Corsini. And don’t miss the Sunday flea market at Porta Portese, an absolute treasure trove for diehard rummagers. Take your best haggling game to snare bargains on everything from vintage fashions and antique jewelry to pre-loved vinyl, classic comic books and, well, just about every other trinket and knick-knack you can imagine.
Ostiense
On the banks of the Tiber, Ostiense wears its industrial heritage on its sleeve, its landscape dominated by a huge metal gasometer from the decommissioned gasworks. If that’s already piqued your interest in this buzzing ‘burb, where ancient and modern Rome collide, you’re going to absolutely love the Central Montemartini museum, where dozens of ancient Greek and Roman statues, busts and friezes hewn from marble and stone are displayed against a backdrop of pipes, engines, turbines and dials inside a former electrical power station. And that’s not all. There’s a thriving street art scene here – meaning Ostiense is one of the best places to see work from up-and-coming Rome graffitos – as well as a number of hip bars, a smattering of craft beer pubs, and a cat café. One of Catholic Rome’s ‘big four’ basilicas, St Paul Outside the Walls, cuts an incongruous figure against what is an otherwise distinctly modern urban landscape.
Parione
The central rione of Parione is probably most famous for its two sprawling piazzas. Make for vibrant Campo dei Fiori, where Rome’s longest-running market (operating here since 1869), brings its riot of color, sound and scent every morning (except Sunday). Follow your nose past the rainbows of blooming gerberas to the unmissable foodie stalls. You’d require the willpower of a saint to resist temptation in the face of these mountains of homemade cake, freshly baked loaves and pungent Italian cheeses. In the evening, do as the locals do and soak up the baroque splendor of Piazza Navona on a twilight stroll across its cobbled expanse, pausing to swoon at Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers), watch the street entertainers ply their trade and snap Instagram-ready shots of the fairytale palazzos and churches that line the square. Paper thin and ultra crispy wood-fired pizza at an authentic trattoria (washed down with local craft ales, natch) provides the perfect ending to a day in this historic Rome neighborhood.
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