Lanterns over the street in Chinatown, San Francisco

Things to do in Chinatown San Francisco

By Stuart BakBy Stuart Bak

San Francisco’s sprawling Chinatown covers no less than 24 square blocks, measuring around a half mile north to south and a quarter mile east to west and forming part of the busy Downtown neighborhood. It’s also the oldest Chinatown in North America, established here way back in 1848 when it blew Western minds with that first life-changing taste of aromatic Chinese dumplings.

There’s more than enough to see and do within this historic enclave’s storied streets and alleyways to fill an entire day, allowing you time to soak up the unique atmosphere and experience a slice of San Francisco as it used to be. So what are you waiting for? Pass through the Dragon Gate and join us on our stroll through the best things to do in Chinatown San Francisco.

Enter the Dragon

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There are two distinct sides to Chinatown: the touristy and the non-touristy. You’re a tourist though, right? So that seems like the logical place to start. Of the two major thoroughfares running north to south through Chinatown, Grant Street is the one you’re looking for – specifically the much-photographed Dragon Gate – the imposing southern entrance with its three gates in traditional pailou style and its duo of fearsome Chinese lions. Wait your turn for the essential Chinatown selfie before stepping through to begin your Chinese adventure proper.

Immediately you'll find yourself transported to a different world, a world where red and gold paper lanterns sway overhead, ornate street lamps line the sidewalks, and the intoxicating scents of sizzling Szechuan shrimp and hoisin roast duck (more about the food later, snack fans!) fill the air. Soak it up as you wander along Grant Avenue, camera in hand, to the intersection of Grant and California. Here, to the clang and clatter of San Francisco’s iconic cable cars, is where you’ll find Chinatown’s other most-photographed structures: Sing Chong and Sing Fat, a pair of towering pagoda-style buildings facing off across the street, and Old St Mary’s Church which bears an ominous ALL CAPS warning beneath its grand clock: "SON, OBSERVE THE TIME AND FLY FROM EVIL"

Avenues and Alleyways

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But the real magic happens when you get off the main drag and begin to explore the other side of Chinatown. Even the second major thoroughfare, Stockton Street, has a more authentic feel. So once you’ve bagged your souvenirs – waving lucky cat, paper lantern, bamboo backscratcher – from the gift shops on Grant, head over to the colorful markets on Stockton for a real taste of China. And we mean that literally: the produce markets here hawk everything edible, from dried fruit to live crabs and great bundles of bok choy.

Wander into the side streets and back alleys and you’ll discover a whole world of Chinese culture. Think tiny mah jong parlors, laundry strewn window to window on makeshift washing lines above the street, bakeries crammed with egg custard tarts and Chinese donuts, and cute old-fashioned shops selling all manner of snacks, trinkets and esoteric Chinoiserie.

Me Want Cooooookies!

Discover what your future holds at the tiny Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory on Ross Alley. Here, you can watch the crack cookie team in action as they assemble thousands of the crunchy fortune-telling treats by hand every single day. Photos are permitted for a small fee, and you can buy bags of cookies in a variety of flavors to take away. Go green tea for maximum authenticity, or chocolate-coated for the ultimate cookie indulgence. But be warned: there may well be an expanding waistline in your future.

Nearby Waverly Place was once home to two notorious brothels. Now the most colorful thing here is the buildings, rows of Insta-perfect shops and dwellings painted in a rainbow of garish greens, baby pinks and turmeric yellows, complete with elaborate balconies. It’s also where you’ll find the Tin How Temple. Founded way back in 1852, it’s the oldest Taoist temple in the United States. Intrepid explorers can visit by locating number 125 Waverly Place and climbing the steps to the third floor. Inside, incense burns, candles flicker in the gloom, paper lanterns hover overhead and dozens of small statues of Chinese deities crowd the space. Worshippers pray silently and leave offerings of fruit and bread at Tin How’s shrine.

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Next, head round the corner for a snap in front of the Old Chinese Telephone Exchange, a beautifully overstated red, green and gold pagoda-style building on Washington Street, now staffed by bank employees who gaze on with bemusement at the constant flow of selfie-takers on their doorstep. Then onwards to Portsmouth Square: this rather nondescript place is nevertheless the heart of Chinatown, and it’s here you can pause to watch the world go by and see elderly locals indulge in good old-fashioned pursuits like t’ai chi and Chinese chess.

Food, glorious food!

Confucius say: he who comes to Chinatown and does not eat the food did not really come to Chinatown. Ok ok, so we made that quote up, but it’s a truth universally acknowledged that the best dim sum in the States is to be found in the narrow lanes of this thriving San Francisco neighborhood. Our advice? Dive in!

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There are a number of hole-in-the-wall takeaway joints as well as (usually) tiny, cramped premises for those who want the full authentic Chinatown experience. These are the places for life-altering culinary experiences, where you can gorge on delicate shrimp and chive gyoza, fluffy BBQ pork dumplings and crispy sesame balls to your heart’s content. The food is so good and the prices so cheap that there’s every chance you’ll stick around for seconds. And probably thirds. Just don’t expect the ‘have a nice day’ level of attention you'll be used to from elsewhere in San Francisco. Service here often feels brusque and impatient, but lean into it at eateries like the City View Restaurant and Chinatown stalwart the Hang Ah Tea Room and you’ll soon discover it's all part of the charm, and easily one of the most fun things to do in San Francisco’s Chinatown.

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Stuart Bak
Stuart Bak
Freelance travel writer

Stu caught the travel bug at an early age, thanks to childhood road trips to the south of France squeezed into the back of a Ford Cortina with two brothers and a Sony Walkman. Now a freelance writer living on the Norfolk coast, Stu has produced content for travel giants including Frommer’s, British Airways, Expedia, Mr & Mrs Smith, and now Go City. His most memorable travel experiences include drinking kava with the locals in Fiji and pranging a taxi driver’s car in the Honduran capital.

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The de Young Museum in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco
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Best Art Galleries in San Francisco

San Francisco is something of a treasure trove for art lovers. At one end of the spectrum are the dozens of small independent galleries scattered around the city while, at the other, you've got the big guns, in this case the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA), one of the largest modern and contemporary art museums on the planet. There’s plenty around the city for everyone, from excitable toddlers to easily bored teens to seen-it-all-before museum mavens. Join us as we explore some of the best art galleries in San Francisco. San Francisco Museum of Modern Art It would be remiss not to kick this list off with the daddy of them all. And let’s get this straight: SFMOMA is huge. We’re talking 170,000 square feet and seven stories huge, so it’s a good idea to plan your must-sees before you get here. And what a collection you have to choose from. There are commissioned murals from Bay Area artists as well as crucial pieces from household names that read like a who’s who of modern and contemporary art. Think Jackson Pollock, Georgia O’Keeffe, Andy Warhol, Edward Hopper, Gerhard Richter, Frida Kahlo, Willem de Kooning, Henri Matisse and Paul Klee and you’ve barely scratched the surface. Don’t miss the rooftop sculpture garden and accompanying views of the Downtown skyline, and make time to visit the living wall, a vast dense forest of lush foliage. As a piece of art it is simply stunning, and provides different sensory experiences depending on the season. It is also, naturally, the largest living wall of its kind in the world. Cartoon Art Museum Located in Fisherman’s Wharf, the Cartoon Art Museum (CAM) celebrates all things comic-related, displaying comic strips, political cartoons, anime, graphic novels and more from its fine collection of over 7,000 pieces. Pop by to catch one of the regularly rotating exhibitions – the eclectic range of past themes include Wonder Woman, Popeye, Garfield and Disney Villains, as well as explorations of wartime comics and controversial political cartoons, and celebrations of the work of influential 20th-century illustrators including Edward Gorey and Charles M. Schulz. There are tables where kids (and adults) can create their own comic art, and the gift shop is sure to make all your Batman/Hellboy/Calvin and Hobbes dreams come true. Asian Art Museum The Asian Art Museum boasts one of the largest and most important collections of Asian art in the world and can be found in one of the beautiful Beaux Arts buildings in the San Francisco Civic Center. Here’s where you can see Chinese Jades from the Neolithic period, Persian ceramics, Korean paintings, Cambodia bronzes, Samurai armor, Hindu deities and much more. Around 2,000 pieces from the museum’s 18,000-strong collection are on display at any given time, with the bulk of these originating from China, including ritual bronzes, lacquerware and decorative ceramics, some of which date from over 6,000 years ago. Don’t miss the incredibly well-preserved bronze Buddha statue, dated 338. De Young Museum You don’t really need an excuse to visit Golden Gate Park, with its 10 lakes, picture-perfect Dutch windmill, smattering of world-class museums and acres of formal gardens. But, if you did, the de Young Museum is as good a reason as any. The building has taken many forms since it opened on this site at the end of the 19th Century. Its latest – complete with dramatic copper facade – is something of a work of art in itself; likewise the views from its 144-foot Hamon Observation Tower. Step inside, where an extensive collection of American paintings, sculptures and decorative arts spanning the last five centuries is supported by smaller collections from Africa, the Americas and Oceania. Must-see highlights include George Caleb Bingham’s Renaissance-style 1846 masterpiece Boatmen on the Missouri, Albert Bierstadt’s pastoral Sacramento riverbank scene California Spring and the absorbing installation of wire sculptures by celebrated modernist Ruth Asawa in the tower lobby. It’s easily one of the best art galleries in San Francisco. Exploratorium The Exploratorium on Pier 15 is an art and science extravaganza, with stacks of ​​interactive galleries focusing on sight, touch, sound, memory and perception. It’s the type of place kids and adults can spend hours exploring together and, with hands-on exhibits galore, it’s ideal for a family day out whether your little darlings are curious toddlers or difficult-to-please teens. The artworks here are not just for looking at; they’re for interacting with. Simulate sandstorms in the Aeolian Landscape exhibit and listen to the eerie singing of the Aeolian Harp when the wind picks up outside. Lose your way on the Fog Bridge and step inside a real mini-tornado. Have a boogie with your animated twin in the Recollections installation and experience Sun Painting, an ever-changing kaleidoscopic work of colorful art made by reflecting and refracting the sun’s rays onto a massive canvas. Seems like a lot, right? But this barely scratches the surface of one of the city's most wide-ranging museums. Contemporary Jewish Museum Located in the SoMa neighborhood, the Contemporary Jewish Museum (CJM) merits a visit to goggle at the building alone. Part former gas and electric substation, part enormous deconstructivist blue steel cube known as the ‘Yud’, it’s really quite something. The Yud’s 36 diamond-shaped windows make for an awe-inspiring space that’s used for a variety of installations and events, and that highly contemporary look nods to the kinds of things you can expect here. There’s no permanent collection; instead, the CJM curates an ever-changing series of captivating exhibitions that explore contemporary perspectives on Jewish culture, history and art. Past exhibitions have focused on the legend of the golem and other Jewish folklore, explored the life and work of Leonard Cohen, and celebrated the art of cartoonist Rube Goldberg. Whatever you do, don’t miss the masterpiece that is the challah French toast with maple syrup at Wise Sons, the museum’s authentic Jewish deli. Save on the best art galleries in San Francisco Save on admission to San Francisco attractions with Go City. Check out @GoCity on Instagram and Facebook for the latest top tips and attraction info.
Stuart Bak
Stuart Bak
The Coit Tower in North Beach, San Francisco
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Things to do in North Beach San Francisco

North Beach is San Francisco’s Little Italy, a buzzing, colorful district between Chinatown and Fisherman’s Wharf where gelato shops rub shoulders with hip dive bars and vintage boutique stores. There are oodles of fun things to do in North Beach San Francisco, from following in the footsteps of Beat Generation icon Jack Kerouac to admiring the soaring twin spires of the landmark Peter and Paul Church and – naturally – devouring the best cannoli in town. Check out our rundown of the 10 best things to do in this hip SF village by the Bay. Visit ‘the Italian Cathedral of the West’ Not in fact a cathedral, Saints Peter and Paul Church is nevertheless an impressive sight to behold. This ornate, twin-spired edifice that towers over Washington Square has plenty of star quality: Joe DiMaggio married his first wife here, then returned for a cheeky photo opportunity years later following his second marriage to Marilyn Monroe. Take a picnic and spend some time people-watching from the grassy lawns or grab a bite at one of the excellent Italian restaurants and bakeries that line Washington Square and nearby Columbus Avenue. Walk in Jack Kerouac’s Footsteps Beat Generation writer Jack Kerouac lived between Columbus and Grant, on an alleyway that's now named in his honor. Admire the colorful street art along this short street then head for the City Lights bookstore, once frequented by Kerouac and now all but guaranteed to have stacks of his novels in stock. Vesuvio Cafe opposite retains much of its 1950s charm from when Keroauc and other leading lights of the Beat Generation used to meet here to drink and discuss their work. But mostly to drink. Raise a glass in their memory, then head over to the Beat Museum, where exhibits include Allen Ginsberg’s typewriter and ephemera from Kerouac’s funeral. Ride the Cable Car to Lombard Street Hands down one of the best ways to sightsee in San Francisco, the cable car from North Beach meanders south to Downtown via the much-Instagrammed Lombard, a steep street that’s said to resemble a playground slide thanks to its eight (count ‘em!) hairpin bends and vibrant floral borders. Revel in the squeal of the cables and clang of the bell as you clatter through town on these colorful wooden landmarks. Bag a spot on the left-hand side of the car (as you leave North Beach) for the best views of Alcatraz and the San Francisco Bay. And don’t forget to hold on tight! Climb the Filbert Street Steps In the market for heart-pumping physical exertion and breathtaking bay views? The Filbert Street Steps have you covered! These (mostly) wooden steps run from Sansome Street to the corner of Filbert and Telegraph Hill. They’re steep and there are around 400 of them so this is not an experience for the faint of heart. But those who do take up the challenge are rewarded with a climb that reveals beautiful wildflowers, chattering Telegraph Hill parrots, quaint cottages and sweeping views across the water to the San Francisco Bay Bridge and Treasure Island. On reaching the top, walkers still able to feel their legs can climb another 100 or so stairs to reach the landmark Coit Tower. Make Yourself Dizzy at Coit Tower The 360-degree views from the top of Coit Tower are among SF’s finest and, although the climb to the tower itself is a steep one, once inside there’s an elevator to whiz you up to the top – phew! From way up here, you can expect to see Lombard Street snaking west, as well as – deep breath – Nob Hill, Twin peaks, Alcatraz, the Ferry Building and the Golden Gate Bridge. And that’s just for starters. Equally mesmerizing are some of the original fresco murals that grace the tower’s interior, depicting various industries and newsworthy events from the 1930s, when this art deco monolith was constructed. Have a Giggle at Cobb’s Comedy Club If you enjoy having your funny bone tickled – and let’s be honest: who doesn’t? – mosey on down to Cobb’s Comedy Club on Columbus. This stalwart of the San Francisco comedy scene has been part of the fabric of North Beach since it moved here from Fisherman’s Wharf in 2002, and has hosted big names including Dana Carvey, Bill Burr, Dave Chappelle and Anjelah Johnson down the years. There are shows most evenings and a menu serving the likes of nachos, fried chicken, cocktails and beer. Spend the Day in Fisherman’s Wharf Neighboring Fisherman’s Wharf takes in the whole of San Francisco’s northern waterfront and is one of the city’s most popular areas. It’s here you’ll find major attractions including the Madame Tussauds waxwork museum, WWII submarine the USS Pampanito and the stunningly restored 19th and 20th-century ships at Hyde Street Pier, part of the San Francisco Maritime National Historic Park. For some good old-fashioned seaside entertainment, make for Pier 39, where the dozens of stores and restaurants are supplemented by thrill rides, VR experiences, a carousel, gaming arcades, street performers, boat excursions, seal-spotting opportunities and stacks more. When in Little Italy... Eat Cannoli! Anyone who's ever seen an episode of The Sopranos will know what cannoli are. These sweet and crunchy little fried pastry tubes with their creamy ricotta fillings are a staple of the Italian-American diet and you can’t rightfully visit Little Italy without trying one. Or indeed four or five. You’ll find cannoli just like mama used to make in any North Beach bakery or café worth its salt. Some even come dipped in chocolate or with extra toppings for an ultra-decadent treat. Have a Drink in the King of Dive Bars A visit to Specs' Twelve Adler Museum Cafe – or Specs as it’s more commonly known – must surely rank as one of the most enjoyable things to do in North Beach San Francisco. This beloved dive bar of over half a century’s standing is bursting with local characters, fantastic beers and lively conviviality, as well as a vast and eclectic collection of artifacts from around the world. This includes tribal masks, a taxidermy mongoose having a fight with a cobra and the, ahem, mummified reproductive organs of a male walrus. A trip to this historic dive bar – once frequented by Thelonius Monk – should be considered essential. Tour Alcatraz at Night Alcatraz cuts a forbidding figure as it emerges out of San Francisco Bay’s famous fog. For maximum spine-chilling effect, take the ferry over to America’s most notorious former prison in the evening for an after-dark tour you’re unlikely to forget in a hurry. On arrival, you’ll be taken to the cellhouse, where audio guides are available and you can learn about former residents including Al Capone and Machine Gun Kelly as you peer through the metal bars into their tiny, cramped cells. Enjoy the spectacle of Golden Gate Bridge all lit up at night as your ferry departs for the return journey. Save on things to do in North Beach San Francisco Save on admission to San Francisco attractions with Go City. Check out @GoCity on Instagram and Facebook for the latest top tips and attraction info.
Stuart Bak
Stuart Bak

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