Ah, laksa, that most versatile of Southeast Asian dishes. So versatile in fact that you’ll find more variants across the region than there are characters in the Pokémon universe. You’ll also discover disagreement from Indonesia to Malaysia over where and by whom this beloved noodle soup was invented. Almost certainly Peranakan in origin, it appears to have evolved along the spice route over several centuries, with the first known use of the term ‘laksa’ to mean ‘noodles’ dating to 1391.
But what does it taste like? Well, again, that depends where you eat it. But in its most recognized form laksa is an aromatic noodle soup flavored with a fish or shrimp broth, creamy coconut milk, tamarind and herbs including coriander and mint. Usually topped with beansprouts and fish, shrimps or chicken, it’s rich, spicy and just begs to be slurped noisily, though its vibrant yellow color makes wearing a white shirt while dining an absolute no-no. Best of all it’s deliciously moreish and available in every Singapore restaurant, food court and hawker center worth its salt. It’s also eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner so no need to limit yourself to just one bowl a day! We took a deep dive to discover some of the best places for laksa in Singapore and you’ll find a small election of our faves below.
Sungei Road Laksa
This near legendary laksa kitchen is run by a tiny team of crack chefs from its unassuming location along the Sungei Road. But believe us when we say there’s nothing pedestrian about the laksa, with great steaming bowls of noodle broth being served up to long queues of hungry punters most days from morning until late afternoon. The laksa here is both delicate and rich at the same time. Cooked over charcoal, packed with thick bee hoon noodles and topped generously with cockles, crunchy beansprouts and fragrant herbs it’s a satisfying lunch and all for just a few dollars. Afterwards, head south over the Rochor Canal and into Kampong Glam, where alongside the landmark Sultan Mosque, you’ll find trendy boutiques and antique emporia galore, for all your souvenir-shopping needs.
Find it: 27 Jalan Berseh, #01-100, Singapore 200027
Depot Road Zhen Shan Mei Claypot Laksa
The clue’s in the (rather long) name of this Alexandra Village Food Center stalwart, which has been awarded the Michelin Bib Gourmand every year since 2016 for its impossible-to-resist laksa. The gravy is cooked and served in a claypot, lending it an aromatic, smoky flavor and ensuring your meal retains its heat regardless of how long you spend chatting to friends between each delicious mouthful. This rich, creamy almost curry-like take on laksa is ideal fuel if you’re off for an afternoon’s hiking in the nearby Southern Ridges, where an elevated walkway weaves through the treetops south of the city, colorful native birdlife is in abundance and the Henderson Waves Bridge – a striking landmark with undulating steel ribs that snake over and under the walkway – has to be seen (and walked across) to be believed.
Find it: 120 Bukit Merah Lane 1, Alexandra Hawker Centre, #01-75, Singapore 151120
Janggut Laksa
Janggut Laksa is one of at least two laksa joints at the Queenstown Shopping Center (and countless more around the city) to claim ownership of the ‘original and best’ Katong laksa in Singapore, Katong being an orange-hued take on the more commonly found yellow lemak variety, cooked with a little less coconut and a little more spice. Whether original or best is probably moot in a place with this much choice, but Janggut’s take on the dish is certainly up there. A refreshing and aromatic broth with notes of coriander, ginger and lemongrass, it comes packed with thick, chewy noodles, shrimp and a great big dollop of sambal sauce to add further heat and depth to your soup, should you be feeling bold enough to stir it through. Like most laksa eateries, the menu is short and to the point, but we’d also recommend trying the curried chicken here if you can find an appetite big enough.
Find it: 1 Queensway, #01-59, Singapore 149053
328 Katong Laksa
Another claimant to the title of ‘original and best’ is 328 Katong Laksa over the other side of town on the East Coast Road (why one of these joints didn’t just go for ‘Original and Best Katong Laksa’ as their shop name beats us). However, 328’s rivalry with fellow Singapore eateries is as nothing compared to their epic 2013 cook-off with Gordon Ramsay, a battle which saw the East Coast crew triumph, catapulting their already legendary laksa into the the stratosphere (no, not literally). Join the snaking queues to find out what all the fuss is about, but expect to pay a premium for the ‘number one laksa in Singapore’. The white sands and swaying coconut palms at nearby East Coast Park provide the perfect setting for sleeping it off in the afternoon sun.
Find it: 51 East Coast Road, Singapore 428770
928 Yishun Laksa
There are plenty of reasons to make a day trip out to the northeast region of Singapore. Singapore Zoo, for example, one of the biggest and best on the planet. Then there’s the natural hot spring at Sembawang, a pungent high-sulfide pool said to have healing properties. Woodlands Waterfront Park boasts the longest jetty on the island and a lovely promenade with views across the Straits of Johor to Malaysia. But perhaps the best reason to head north is to pay a visit to 928 Yishun Laksa, a stalwart of Singapore’s noodle soup scene with the long queues to prove it. Expect thick, creamy broth with a kick of spicy sambal at this family-run stall, where the laksa is prepared from scratch using fresh ingredients daily. Be sure to get there early: this ever-popular joint often closes mid-to-late afternoon when their addictive soups sell out.
Find it: 928 Yishun Central 1, #01-155, Singapore 760928
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